First, I pinned the lining and fabric together, lining them up at the ends.
Once I'm happy with it, I take one side of the lining and fold it down, pinning it out of the way from the seam.
I fold down about a quarter-to-half inch of the fashion fabric on top, with no lining, to the bottom and pin them together.
About an inch or so away from the small end, I place a marker pin. At this marker, I will fold away the lining and only continue to stitch the fashion fabric together. This will help when hemming the sleeve.
My tools: 2-ply natural linen thread, sharps, and a hunk of wax for the linen thread. I bought the linen thread for attaching linen tape to the tops of petticoats, and for the inside of another garment; well, I ended up not using that fabric and it's a perfect match for this printed cotton. Wicked awesome.
I sew a spaced backstitch, trying to leave about a quarter inch between the teeny stitches. Sometimes it's a bit less, other times a bit more. There is some stress on this seam, but not enough to make me worry about not being exact. When I get to my marker, as shown here, I peel the lining back out of the way.
After that's done, the sleeve gets turned inside out, and the lining that was pinned out of the way is now pinned down, to be whipped to just itself on the other side (it's okay if you get one or two stitches through the fashion fabric, but they'll show through).
|Pinned down, lined up with the backstitches.|
|Whipping it. Whipping it good.|
|Whipped and backstitch, together at last.|